DEFLASKING

TYPICAL FLASK

Many of you have asked about deflasking, and for every orchid grower there is a different and valid way to deflask. I will offer you my methods which are from my experience and closely resemble those of The OrchidWorks.

The methods I use are based on having large robust plantlettes in the flask. If you are working with something that looks like grass or is only a half inch tall, well, good luck, and if you find a sure fire method for dealing with those kind of plants I would like to hear about it, because I buy those kind of flasks from time to time too.

After you receive the flasks, don't wait, get wright to work. After going through the mail the plants will probably be josseled and the probability of a fungal infection increases every moment. Get to it.

The ratio between the cost of the plants and the cost of the container is so great that I break all my flasks, including the $3 Erlenmeyer. Put a cloth over the glass before striking it with your favorite devise. Notice that our favorite devise hear at the nursery is a pair of water pump pliers, I use a roofers hammer at home.

Remove the plants from the broken glass and gently agitate in a bowl of water until the root loosen, the media falls away and the plants can be easily separated. Grade the plants according to size so the larger ones won't create a canopy for the smaller plantlettes.

GETTING THE PLANTLETTES OUT

GRADING THE PLANTLETTES

If you have a lot of room to grow these seedlings and they are large, healthy robust plantlettes I prefer putting them into plug trays. This gives them a lot of light and air. If they are smaller I often put them into community flats. If you don't have enough plants to make a whole flat you may consider using the standard community pot.

Everyone uses a different growing media and I won't presume to tell you what the best is for your specific conditions and growing habits. Almost anything will work well as long as the other ingredients to culture are appropriate (light, water, fertilizer, air movement, humidity, etc).

It's important to maintain the roots that come from the flask. If you loosen and separate the plants while they are in a pale of water, the water acts as a lubricant and causes less root damage. When potting or flatting, it is necessary to maintain this caution. If all the roots are broken the plant is set back about four months, that is, if it survives.

I usually use New Zealand sphagnum moss for my plugs, compots, and comflats. I am always trying new media and I would encourage you to do the same, who knows what will work best for you.

After the plantlettes are planted I use a broad spectrum fungicide to drench the media and cover the plantlettes. Many a compot has been lost by infections occurring in the broken roots that lay in the media, and then move up to the base of the plant. When the plants are sprayed with a fungicide this level of the plant, the root zone, won't be affected by the spray, hence the drench, also known as a sprench.

Pesticides available here in Hawaii may not be available in your state, and visa-versa. Go to your farm supply and ask for a broad spectrum fungicide that is labeled for orchids or ornamentals that can be used in a greenhouse.

Depending on your conditions you will want to spray, drench, or sprench as often as necessary. In my greenhouse that turns out to be every couple of weeks.

COMPOTS

COMFLATS

Most of the oncidiinae varieties at this young stage will do just fine with 1,500 foot candles of light. If your temperatures are cool you could add more light and if the temperatures are warmer you may consider less light.

Never, ever, let them dry out!! I water and fertilize a lot. Every watering is a fertigation. In the summer they may be watered every day if that's what it takes to keep them damp. You will have to take into consideration the moisture holding capacity of the media, the temperatures, air movement, etc. when determining your watering frequency. Just remember, these are not like cattleyas, if the roots go dry, the roots die.

 

This is the recipe I use at home and similar to the recipe I use in the nursery. It has worked well and I'm sure, if followed you too will be successful.

If you have any questions or comment about this page please give me a call or send me an email.

Best regards and good growing from the staff

PLUG TRAY